Now that the rear end of the car’s just about wrapped up it was time to shift my focus back on the center. I needed to get the doors hung and the striker pin installed so I could get another rough fitting of the door, this time with the spider on the car – recall I had already verified the door operation in post 31 (Roughing the body).
Upper door hinge:
Now that the resin’s fully cured on my door upper I can install the upper hinge hardware. There are slight circular depressions where I believe you’re supposed to drill through for the hinge hardware but I didn’t trust them (and I’m glad I didn’t, they didn’t line up with where I ultimately put my holes!).
I sanded the resin flat and used a template to locate the hinge hardware. The hardware is secured to the door and roof structure via 2x 1/4-20 bolts for each piece. The hinge has a neat ball/socket assembly that allows you to adjust length and offset independently.
The locking mechanism that’s supplied as part of the bear claw can’t be used – there isn’t enough space for it once it’s installed onto the door. You’ll need to remove the locknut and cap screw to remove the lock.
I couldn’t come up with a good way to locate the door lock striker pin so I went way basic.
I placed some blue painter’s tape on the spider about where I thought the striker pin would go. I then closed the door after adding pieces of weatherstripping to help simulate how the fully completed door would sit in the frame. I also taped a few popsicle sticks in place to help set a consistent door gap. With the door now closed, I could reach inside with a pencil and mark the location of the striker pin. The pin requires a 3/8″ hole; if your hands are small enough you can reach in from the engine section and secure the pin by installing a nut from behind. Lucky me I have small hands! Otherwise you would have to remove the spider completely to secure the pin well enough to test the fit.
The doors fit and the latches worked well with almost no massaging needed! What a relief this was, I was really dreading having to massage the heck out of the doors to get a good fit and to make the latching mechanism work. Using the method above, I was able to get the door striker pin location correct without having to Swiss cheese my bodywork.
One thing to note – I will have to shave my door striker pins down just a smidge. They’re a bit too tall right now and they rub on they *just* rub on the doors. I expect over time, and with vibration, the pins will leave rub marks on the door.
1 step forward, 10 steps back – what does that mean?
So now that I’ve got the doors sussed the next thing I need to do is to get the roof intake tunnel installed – and to do that, I’ve got to remove the spider. To remove the spider I had to …
- Remove the hood props
- Remove the rear clam
- Remove the front clam
- Remove the doors
- Remove the rear lower wheel well liners
- Remove the spider
With all this bodywork removed it was a good opportunity for me to get some of the larger pieces sent out for powder coating – namely the rear wing stanchions and the rear diffuser. To remove the rear diffuser I had to …
- Remove the lower center “wing”
- Remove all the diffuser attachment brackets
- Remove the rear clam hinge assembly
- Remove the center brake light
1 step forward, 10 steps back!
One Comment Add yours
Cam, really great, simple idea to locate the striker pin in the spyder. Definitely qualifies for a KISS award. You were obviously paying attention in your V.E.classes, (for you non engineers, thats Value Engineering, aka KISS)